24 Hours in Addis Ababa
Posted on August 30, 2009, by Hanna Ingber Win, under Crime, International.
ADDIS ABABA, Ethiopia — I have been in Ethiopia for less than 24 hours and have had my first experience with armed robbery.
I was walking around an open-air market – in broad daylight – in Ethiopia’s capital, Addis Ababa, with a friend who has lived here for over a year. The Merkato is considered the biggest open-air market in Africa. With the exception of an Ethiopian contemporary art gallery, it was the one thing in Addis I really wanted to see – mostly for the photo opportunities.
My friend and I, the only two white people there, spent the afternoon strolling through the market. She chatted with the men and young children calling after us. I took photos: men sitting on the street selling everything from sneakers to power cords to videogame controllers; Muslims lined up on their knees for the afternoon prayer; stalls selling bushels of leaves called chat that men chew as a stimulant; women in a variety of dress – some Ethiopian Orthodox Christians wearing white veils for church, Muslims in headscarves and some, presumably Somalis, in gowns that fully covered their bodies with only slits for their eyes. One wore a long black gown, fully covered, and as she walked, pretty silver high heels peaked out.
As we were on our way out of the market, two young guys ran up from behind us. One grabbed the digital camera out of my hand. The cord was wrapped around my wrist, so he had to tug. As I soon as I realized what was happening, I let go easily. Just in case.
Then I saw the other young man struggling with my friend for her clutch purse. She put up a decent fight, even running after him a little. Damn it, I thought as I watched my guy take off through the stalls, I should have put up a fight.
But the second guy pulled a knife out on my friend. As soon as she saw the knife, she dropped the purse and fell backwards on the ground. He ran off.
People gathered around, watching. No one ran after the guys or even asked if we were OK.
We quickly found a taxi and jetted away.
I have told a few Ethiopians about the incident, and the reaction has been the same: the Merkato is known for theft, but armed robbery? That is very rare here, they say. A fellow writer told me that armed robbery is almost unheard of in Ethiopia, and that the crime rate here for serious crimes is very low compared to other African countries. He also said that had we gone to the police (which we didn’t – how could they find these guys in a huge market?) – and they had arrested the men, the men would have gotten 10 years in prison.
I am in Ethiopia with the UN Population Fund (UNFPA), which will be taking me around the country to visit their maternal health sites. Today we will visit teenage girls who have fled their homes in rural villages due to child marriage and have resettled in the capital. Many now work under harsh conditions as maids for very low-income Ethiopian families. UNFPA helps educate the children and give them life skills.
People in Addis have been friendly; many men and children see a white woman and eagerly begin practicing their English. “You! You!” “Hello.” Or they shout out the Amharic words for “Foreigner!” and “White Face!”
The city is not exactly “attractive.” Tiny shops line the streets selling beer or snacks. And then out of nowhere, these huge, incredibly gaudy modern hotels pop up. Shack – shack – shack – huge gaudy hotel—shack – shack – shack. To be fair, I have only been here for 24 hours. Maybe the beautiful parts of the city are hiding.
Luckily, though, the modern hotel where I am staying has Internet access in my room, a big TV and a clean, comfortable bed. I will spend much of the week outside Addis, where I hear bedbugs prevail. I will get my rest in Addis, while I can.
Despite the fleas, the rest of the country should be very beautiful – thank goodness I brought a second camera.
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5 Replies to "24 Hours in Addis Ababa"
eydey on September 1, 2009
I find your article very shallow and pointless. I’ve read a few other of your articles and they all are the same, very shallow. It just shows that you have no understanding of the countries you’ve visited. You did not establish a bond with the countries you’ve been to ( although you might think you have). You pretend to share the hardship of all those poor people, when really what your are getting is subsidized vacation around the world. You want to give the impression that you are a militant, when really all of this just has one purpose, fulfill your journalistic career.
keith23 on September 3, 2009
what is YOUR problem, eydey? clearly you are not familiar with this writer’s body of work.
eydey on September 5, 2009
My problem is that she rushed to write a pointless and detrimental article on Ethiopia, when she did not even spend a day there. A lot of sentences really upset me. Like “People gathered around, watching. No one ran after the guys or even asked if we were OK”, would you help a black guy being robbed in the suburbs of L.A ? Or “Despite the fleas, the rest of the country should be very beautiful”, so fleas played a great importance in your experience in Ethiopia…
She comes to our country, completely ignorant of our customs and with a very condescending view. I should point out, that there are a considerable long established and well integrated Italian, Greek and Armenian communities that reside in Merkato. She should not think that she is walking in uncharted territory.
She thinks that she is some kind of militant advocating for the sake of the third world. However, I can tell you that no one in Ethiopia appreciate her job. Her work is not sincere to the eyes of Ethiopians. All of this only serve her personal interest, to receive some kudos in L.A. If she wants to be a militant there are plenty of opportunities for her in America.
Zora on October 4, 2009
The problem with Eydey is that she belongs to the tribal land of the Prime Misery Of Ethiopia– aka PM Zenawi. As evidenced every development , UN MDG pgm is geared to Tigray Only. What the world faild to understand is that Ethiopia is governed by Apartheid system. the prime actor is a Black Hitler man and as we know crime committed on black by black is ignored!! there is nothing wrong with Hannah’s work.
keith23 on August 31, 2009
omg. thank goodness you two are alright.